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Where to Eat and Drink in Portland’s Montavilla Neighborhood - Eater Portland

Oct 15, 2024

The best restaurants and bars east of Mount Tabor

Montavilla, a sprawling neighborhood nestled in the eastern shadow of Mount Tabor against 205, is an almost perfectly self-contained Portland oasis, complete with its own first-run movie theater. Locals frequent the neighborhood restaurants and bars, though several better-known gems draw Portlanders from other neighborhoods.

The bulk of bars and restaurants can be found on Southeast Stark and Northeast Glisan, but this is one neighborhood that connects organically with Southeast 82nd, aided by Montavilla Park on the east side of the busy arterial. Nearby favorite spots like Coquine aren’t technically in the neighborhood, but are within walking distance. For more dining options nearby, check out our Southeast 82nd map.

Rocket Empire Machine is another successful variation on the food hall brewpub. Almost due north from Mount Tabor, this food hall offers indoor and outdoor seating, with dynamic food options including a second location of the Mercado’s popular Oaxacan cart Tierra del Sol, the rare Portland combo of sushi and Burmese curries at Sea and River Sushi, and extraordinary lamb and beef stews and spongy injera of Mia’s African Kitchen, all enhanced with house-made spicy sauces. From morning until evening, the Pie Spot is open to fulfill coffee fixes and pie cravings.

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At this Glisan Street bakery, containers of house-made sauerkraut and curry ketchup are available for purchase next to the pastry case, which holds baked goods like Berliners, almond cakes, and all manner of laminated pastries. Behind the counter, a rustic cabinet displays pretzels and bread. Owner Edgar Loesch pulls inspiration from his Bavarian background, as well as training as a baker and pastry chef in northern California. Those looking for a hearty start to the day should reach for a pretzel bun sandwich, which can be ordered with bacon, Bierwurst, or grilled ham.

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A cousin of Ethiopian cuisine, Somali food’s broader international influences are quickly evident in the carb options — which might include the spongy anjara (similar to injera), other breads like japati and muufo, as well as rice and pasta. Amir’s Motherland on Glisan dishes out generously portioned Somali classics in a bare-bones setting, including beef-filled samosas, rice with goat meat in a tangy sauce, and several Somali pasta dishes. Amir’s rounds out each entree with a side salad and the traditional banana.

This intimate-yet-elegant bar is the domain of owner and bartender Kierre van de Veere — against a backdrop of lush wallpaper and tunes courtesy of an extensive vinyl collection, van de Veere offers inventive cocktails such as the Laphroaig-ian Slip, incorporating Scotch, sherry, lemongrass, and lime bitters. But don’t hesitate to order classics like boulevardiers, Negronis, and sazeracs. Blank Slate is also bookable for private events.

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A bedrock of Montavilla and the larger Portland Vietnamese food scene for nearly 25 years, Bui continues to set the standard for tofu of every texture and flavor — even meat-stuffed tofu. Some customers grab their tofu for later, but Bui also offers the makings of a complete meal, with orange sticky rice, tofu salad rolls, and a mushroom-and-pork rice flour crepe. Electric green pandan cake highlights the simple-but-delicious dessert menu. Bui is a grab-and-go operation with no dine-in seating available.

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Portland may not have had a Republican mayor since 1980, but nostalgic bipartisan vibes live on in this busy, spacious, art-lined coffee shop and bakery. The main attraction at the Bipartisan Cafe is the pie, handmade fresh daily, offered by the slice or as a whole with vegan and gluten free options. For the savory seekers, there are also sandwiches, soups, salads, and other offerings at this community-focused café.

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Taking over from the beloved, departed Vintage, Arbor Hall boasts a similarly expansive selection of whiskeys — among other drams — in a bit less stuffy setting. Sip a house special cocktail like the sweet-and-sour Stardust (aged rum, rye, vermouth) or timeless classics like Corpse Reviver #2. Or, particularly on slower nights, share a favorite drink or two with your bartender and let them work their magic. Happy hour from 4-6 pm features a limited selection of stellar cocktails for just $9. The food is lovingly crafted but limited to a handful of sandwiches and bar snacks.

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A laid-back taproom and bottle shop, Beer Bunker carries one of the best draft lists east of Mount Tabor. The stark, industrial space provides entertainment in the form of darts and pinball, and a large pavement patio out back is strewn with red picnic tables for sunny day drinking. The bar opens in the mid-afternoon and quickly fills up with regulars looking for a cool pint.

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A standout Vietnamese restaurant in a town full of them, Hanoi Kitchen is an under-sung, spacious dining room with polished wood floors and a tile ceiling. Family-owned, the restaurant offers vermicelli noodle bowls, rice-crepe wraps, and a range of rich phos and other soups — including a terrific vegan pho and other vegan and vegetarian dishes. Entrees come with a generous handfuls of basil, shiso, cilantro, and other fresh herbs.

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Powerhouse restaurateur Akkapong Earl Ninsom makes each new expansion of his restaurant empire a unique, daring enterprise, often serving as an opportunity to collaborate with other Portland talents. Yaowarat, Ninsom’s latest, conjures the tastes of Bangkok’s Chinatown in a vibrant dining room, drawing in the talents of seasoned chef Sam Smith and Expatriate’s Kyle Linden Webster. A shared dinner order might include crispy bean curd dumplings, egg noodles with pork gravy, shiitake mushroom fried rice, and roast pork with three spicy sauces. Here, the specials rotate frequently, cocktails are ingenious, and Sundays offer barbecued Cantonese duck.

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If it’s possible for a restaurant to be both punk-rock and family-friendly, then East Glisan Pizza is just that, with wood floors, stone walls, and a laid-back vibe. Smacking of old-school-Portland charm, the pizzeria offers pinball and cocktails along with its thin-crust and Detroit-style pizzas. East Glisan is also home to a number of weekly specials and a killer late-night happy hour, complete with lasagna pinwheels.

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Hungry Heart began life as a bakery food cart before getting a brick-and-mortar right off of Stark in Montavilla. Today, the cute, modern cafe offers its ever-popular line of cupcakes alongside pastries both sweet and savory, sandwiches, granola, and Stumptown coffee. Diners can grab a dozen cupcakes to go, or sit in one of the few little tables inside or out. After occupying a larger spot on Stark for several years, Hungry Heart has moved back into its current location a block away.

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A no-frills bar and restaurant, Roscoe’s offers a robust draft list and cheap drinks alongside Louisiana-style pub grub, like po’ boys, a selection of jambalaya, chicken and waffles, and gumbo. The vintage building, often filled with loyal regulars, feels like an old-school brewpub, with exposed brick, a wooden bar with leather stools, and comfortable wooden chairs throughout. Feeling something lighter? Just order sushi from the next door Miyamoto and someone will walk it over.

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The Observatory, a handsome mid-2000s vintage restaurant and bar, has become a Montavilla staple, and happily manages to keep its Northwest cuisine feeling as vital as ever. Seafood leads the appetizer offerings while the entree focus is burgers, made with everything from elk and lamb to quinoa and mushroom. Affordable cocktails are a major draw, and those primarily looking to imbibe can skip the main restaurant and settle into the cozy Over and Out next door, with a smaller food menu coming from the same kitchen.

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Miyamoto may not boast the pedigree or accolades of some of Portland’s more celebrated — and centrally located — sushi restaurants, but it’s become a neighborhood favorite on the strength of its delicate rice, fresh and thoughtfully sourced fish, and confident simplicity of its presentation. Miyamoto’s chirashi bowl may just be the best value in town. The sake list is ample, and the next-door Roscoe’s tap and bottle list available.

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The Yard food pod houses around a dozen food carts and a beer-and-wine bar just a few blocks north of Southeast Stark. The morning is Puddletown’s time to shine, with lines forming for classic sandwiches on bagels baked just blocks away. Taqueria El Torito and Gyro Kingdom are lunchtime stars, offering generously packed burritos and crisp falafels tinged with mint respectively. Those seeking late-night sustenance will find terrific deals at Bai Yok Thai, a cart that pre-dated the pod and expert Thai fried rice specialist.

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